Connecting Power supply to power chassis
With this step we will be connecting the mounted Power supply to the mounted
Power chassis without connecting the auxiliary power panel. This method would
be the quickest way to connect up if you are intending to use a VFD spindle motor
but still want the protection of a fuse and the functionality of an on/off switch.
- Mains AC power can Kill or seriously injure you and those around you
- Do Not connect your power cable to power while assembling/repairing your equipment
- Not ensuring the Power Supply is set to 240V before plugging it in will permanently
damage it (see instructions below)
1 x Mounted Power Supply
1 x Mounted Power Chassis
3 x Fork terminal
3 x 4.8mm Spade terminals
1 x AC Wiring set
Parts to be sourced
1 x Power lead
Philips head screwdriver
Soldering iron (optional)
- Terminal 1 – 24v DC + Out
- Terminal 2 – 24v DC + Out
- Terminal 3 – 24v DC + Out
- Terminal 4 – 24v DC – Out
- Terminal 5 – 24v DC – Out
- Terminal 6 – 24v DC – Out
- Terminal 7 – 240v AC Earth – In
- Terminal 8 – 240v AC Neutral – In
- Terminal 9 – 240v AC Live – In
- Power LED
- Minor voltage adjuster
- Power Supply input voltage selector 240v AC or 110v AC
- Cooling fan exhaust port
- Power Switch (installed in Chassis)
- Power Chassis
- Fuse Holder
- “Live” pin 240v AC
- “Ground/Earth” pin 240v AC
- “Neutral” pin 240v AC
- “Live” input pin(s) on switch, 240v AC
- “Live” output pins on switch, 240v AC
Make sure your power lead is not plugged into a wall socket (I know, but
I have to say it)
Setting the input Voltage switch
Please check the voltage selection switch is in the right position.
Make sure the switch is set to 240V and not 110v. If it is set to 240v, you will be
able to read it on the switch, if the switch reads 110v please use a screwdriver
and push the switch to the right until the switch reads 240v. If it’s set to 110v
and is switched on it will permanently damage the power supply. (the switch
may say 220v or 230v depending on the version of the power supply but will
work with 240V)
Connecting the Power Chassis to Power Supply
Roll out your AC wire kit so it is flat. Make sure you have a Live (brown), Neutral (blue)
and Ground (green or green/yellow) wire. It is highly recommended you use the correct
wire colour for each step, this will avoid confusion at a latter stage or avoid placing
someone else’s life in danger should you sell or pass your machine on.
Strip each wire back approximately 10mm to expose their cores. Give each of the
striped wires a small twist to bind all of the loose strands together. check the wires
to make sure there are no strands that might touch any other wire. If any are identified,
give the wire another twist.
Slip a spade connector cover (not pictured) over each of the wires and then solder
a 4.8mm spade terminal to the ends (terminals can be crimped, soldering will provide
a stronger connection). Once the spade terminals are attached pull the rubber covers
The next step is slightly more complicated as we don’t know the actual length of
wire need to connect the Power chassis to the Power Supply (as everyone’s enclosure
will be different). So we are going to have to measure them individually. The first
part is to take the live (brown) wire and place the spade connector next to the first
“Live power out pin” on the switch installed in the chassis (refer to Item 8 on the
Power chassis diagram for your switch type).
Run the wire back to terminal 9 (Live AC input terminal) on the power supply
(please refer to the Power Supply diagram). Allow the surplus wire to hang over
the top or back of the power supply.
Measure forward along the wire an addition 10mm from the center of Terminal 9
on the Power supply. This will provide some additional wire so wires are not taut
when installed. Taut wires (wires under strain) are likely to come loose or break
in environments where vibration, movement or heating and cooling is a factor.
Cut the wire at this point. The wire with the spade terminal attached should now
be set to one side for latter use (attaching fork terminals). The additional wire can
be stored for latter use.
You now need to repeat this process with the Neutral (blue) wire to get it’s length.
This wire runs from the Neutral output pin on the back of the Power chassis (refer
to Item 6 on the Power chassis diagram) to terminal 8 (Neutral AC input terminal) on
the power supply (please refer to item 8 in the Power Supply diagram). Ensure you
measure the additional 10mm (approx) of wire.
You now need to repeat this process one more time with the Earth (green or green/yellow)
wire to get it’s length. This wire runs from the Earth output pin on the back of the Power
chassis (refer to Item 5 on the Power chassis diagram) to terminal 7 (Earth AC input terminal)
on the power supply (please refer to item 7 in the Power Supply diagram). Ensure you
measure the additional 10mm (approx) of wire.
The next step is to add the fork terminals to other end of our newly cut wires.
Strip approx 10mm of insulation from each of the wires. Give each wire a twist to bind
any loose strands.
Now crimp or solder (soldering preferred) on the fork connectors to the stripped wires.
This step is optional as the wires can be directly screwed in.
With a Philip’s head screwdriver loosen off the terminal screws labeled with the ground
symbol, “N” and “L” (terminals 7, 8 and 9). Insert the green wire (Earth) to the earth
terminal (terminal 7), the blue wire (Neutral) to the “N” terminal (terminal 8), and,
the brown wire (Live) to the live terminal (terminal 9). Tighten all screws.
Check to make sure the wire form the chassis Live out to the switch live in has not been
dislodged during the fit-out.
Attach the connected Live (brown) wire from the power supply to output pin 1 on the
Attach the connected Neutral (blue) wire from the power supply to the Neutral output
pin on the power chassis
Attach the connected Earth (green or green/yellow) wire from the power supply to the
Earth output pin on the power chassis
Check all wiring to make sure none of the terminals have been bent towards each other
or are touching. Ensure all wires have not slipped out of their crimped connectors and
that all spade connectors have their rubber covers pulled over them.
Alternate view with Switch Type 1 installed
It’s now time to connect everything up. Make sure the Power switch on the Power
chassis is in the “Off” position. Insert the power lead into the chassis. Turn off your
wall socket and plug the power lead in.
The power supply is now connected and ready for it’s initial test while not under any
load. Once again, make sure the voltage selector is set to 240v. Place your enclosure
on a bench near the wall socket. Do not hold the enclosure during testing. Turn on
the wall socket and turn on the chassis power switch. The power LED should now be
glowing green indicating everything is fine. Observe the unit for a minute or so to make
sure nothing is wrong, Turn it off at the switch then the power point and unplug it from
the wall. Always unplug your power supply when not in use. After turning off your power
supply, please wait 60 seconds before turning it back on.
Actual picture to show Power LED
You are now ready to move onto the next step:
Wiring the DC-DC Converter to the power supply.