Wire an SSR to a HY-JKM5 BOB 3

Wire an SSR to a HY-JKM5 BOB

DO NOT HAVE YOUR ELECTRONICS, ROUTER OR OTHER DEVICES PLUGGED IN WHILE YOU WORK ON THEM!
Check that you can see the pronged plugs of the router and electronics are not plugged in.
Best practice – hold the plugs in your hand and visually trace the cords back to the router and electronics enclosure. This will confirm they are not plugged in.

STEP 04

Wire SSR to DB25-1205

A Quick Overview
The following diagram will give you a quick overview of the HY-JKM5 breakout board. 

  1. DB25 LPT Port (connects to PC or Smooth Stepper)
  2. USB Port (5V DC Power in ONLY – no comms)
  3. DC 5V Power Source selector switch
  4. A Axis Output JST and Phoenix header
  5. Z Axis Output JST and Phoenix header
  6. Y Axis Output JST and Phoenix header
  7. X Axis Output JST and Phoenix header
  8. B Axis Output JST and Phoenix header
  9. Digital Readout JST header 
  10. DB15 port (connects to Jog Pendant)
  11. Onboard Relay
  12. Onboard Relay JST and Phoenix header
  13. X Axis Limit Switch input JST and Phoenix header
  14. Y Axis Limit Switch input JST and Phoenix header
  15. Z Axis Limit Switch input JST and Phoenix header
  16. A Axis Limit Switch input JST and Phoenix header
  17. E-Stop Switch input JST and Phoenix header
  18. DC5V input JST and Phoenix header

The HY-JKM5 board has all of it’s pins hard wired to specific functions, in this instance Pin 9 is hard wired to the 5v side of the onboard relay. You’ll need to know this latter on when configuring your software.
Spindle = Pin 9

The DC- wire does not interface with the breakout board and will connect directly to your power supply (or DC Converter). Run the DC- wire from the SSR (labelled “4 -“) to a DC- terminal on the PSU and trim off any extra wire. Remember to leave a little extra as you don’t want the wire to be taut.

Then strip the wire back around 4-6mm. Give the wire a twist and make sure there are no loose strands sticking out.

This is optional but recommended. Place a fork terminal on the end of the DC- wire and crimp the terminal with an appropriate tool. Test by giving both of them a tug to see if they come away, if a fork terminal does come away, dispose of it and start again.

With a Philips head screwdriver loosen off a DC- terminal on the PSU (labelled -V on the PSU). Insert the fork terminal and retighten.

Run the DC+ wire from the SSR to the 1st terminal on the “RELAY” header (as pictured) and trim off any extra wire. Remember to leave a little extra as you don’t want the wire to taut. Terminal “+ 3” on the SSR MUST run to the first terminal as shown as it is the “DC+ Out” terminal.

Then strip back both sides of the wire you just cut to around 3-6mm. Give the wires a twist and make sure there are no loose strands sticking out either segment.

With a small flat head screwdriver loosen off both terminals on the “RELAY” terminal block. Insert the DC 5V+ wire leading from “+ 3” on the SSR to the left “RELAY” terminal (as pictured) and then retighten.

Insert the other stripped wire into the right “RELAY” terminal (as pictured) and then retighten. 

Run the remaining end of the wire to a DC+ terminal on the power supply (marked as “+V”) and trim off any extra wire. Remember to leave a little extra as you don’t want the wire to taut.

Then strip the wire back around 4-6mm. Give the wire a twist and make sure there are no loose strands sticking out.

This is optional but recommended. Place a fork terminal on the end of the DC+ wire and crimp the terminal with an appropriate tool. Test by giving the terminal a tug to see if it comes away, if it does come away, dispose of it and start again.

With a Philips head screwdriver loosen off a DC+ terminal on the PSU (labelled +V on the PSU). Insert the fork terminal and retighten.