Wire an SSR to a TB6560 BOB 3

Wire an SSR to a TB6560 BOB

DO NOT HAVE YOUR ELECTRONICS, ROUTER OR OTHER DEVICES PLUGGED IN WHILE YOU WORK ON THEM!
Check that you can see the pronged plugs of the router and electronics are not plugged in.
Best practice – hold the plugs in your hand and visually trace the cords back to the router and electronics enclosure. This will confirm they are not plugged in.

STEP 04

Wire SSR to TB6560

A Quick Overview
The following diagram will give you a quick overview of the TB6560 controller board. 

  1. Power Input Phoenix Header (12-36V DC)
  2. X Axis Motor Phoenix Header
  3. Y Axis Motor Phoenix Header
  4. Z Axis Motor Phoenix Header
  5. Onboard Relay Phoenix Header (Spindle Header)
  6. Onboard Relay Module
  7. TB6560 Chip Cooling Assembly
  8. Z Axis settings Dip switches
  9. Y Axis settings Dip switches
  10. X Axis settings Dip switches
  11. Jog Pendant JST Header
  12. Jog Pendant DB15 Port
  13. DB25 LPT Port (connects to PC or Smooth Stepper)
  14. Input JST Header (Limit switches and E-Stop)
  15. 12V Regulator
  16. 5V Regulator

The TB6560 controller board has all of it’s pins hard wired to specific functions, in this instance Pin 9 is hard wired to the 5V control side of the onboard relay. You’ll need to know this latter on when configuring your software: 
Spindle = Pin 9 
The switching side is then wired to the Relay Header (labelled as 5 above).  

The DC- wire does not interface with the controller board and will connect directly to your power supply (or DC Converter). Run the DC- wire from the SSR (labelled “4 -“) to a DC- terminal on the PSU and trim off any extra wire. Remember to leave a little extra as you don’t want the wire to be taut.

Then strip the wire back around 4-6mm. Give the wire a twist and make sure there are no loose strands sticking out.

This is optional but recommended. Place a fork terminal on the end of the DC- wire and crimp the terminal with an appropriate tool. Test by giving both of them a tug to see if they come away, if a fork terminal does come away, dispose of it and start again.

With a Philips head screwdriver loosen off a DC- terminal on the PSU (labelled -V on the PSU). Insert the fork terminal and retighten.

Run the DC+ wire from the SSR (labelled “+ 3”) to the “MOUT” terminal on the relay header (as pictured) and trim off any extra wire. Remember to leave a little extra as you don’t want the wire to taut. Terminal “+ 3” on the SSR MUST run to the MOUT (motor out) terminal as shown as it is the DC+ Out terminal.

Then strip back both sides of the wire you just cut to around 3-6mm. Give the wires a twist and make sure there are no loose strands sticking out either segment.

With a small flat head screwdriver loosen off the terminals “MIN” and “MOUT” on the relay terminal block. Insert the DC 5V+ wire leading from “+ 3” on the SSR to the MOUT terminal (as pictured) and then retighten.

Insert the other stripped wire into the “MIN” terminal (as pictured) and then retighten. 

Run the remaining end of the wire to a DC+ terminal on the power supply (marked as “+V”) and trim off any extra wire. Remember to leave a little extra as you don’t want the wire to taut.

Then strip the wire back around 4-6mm. Give the wire a twist and make sure there are no loose strands sticking out.

This is optional but recommended. Place a fork terminal on the end of the DC+ wire and crimp the terminal with an appropriate tool. Test by giving the terminal a tug to see if it comes away, if it does come away, dispose of it and start again.

With a Philips head screwdriver loosen off a DC+ terminal on the PSU (labelled +V on the PSU). Insert the fork terminal and retighten.

Remember – if your power supply exceeds the signal voltage of the SSR (32V Max) you’ll need to use some form of DC to DC converter to bring the voltage down (as mentioned in STEP 1). The converters are reasonably inexpensive and are fairly straight forward to install. Failure to do so may result in damage to the SSR or be a potential fire hazard.